There is something about the colour pink. The last decade has seen a marked increase in sales of all things pink and alcoholic. One in three bottles of wine sold in France these days is pink, sales of pink Champagne are booming, Rosé wine sales are increasing here every year and thankfully most men have rid themselves of any notion that there is anything ‘girly’ about drinking rosé.
Rosé sales are also increasingly youth driven with 18-35 year olds embracing the colour. Do be careful in choosing your pink however as for some larger producers such as Gallo and Blossom Hill a pink colour seems to be a licence to load up the wine with residual sugar.
Pink gin is also having a moment but I recommend that you stick to the Irish craft gin producers such as Blackwater and Glendalough as most of the larger producers (e.g. Gordons have added far too much sugar. Pink cider is also in vogue and the best is probably still the Rhubarb and Apple version made seasonally by Stonewell.
In France, Rosé sales are dominated by Provence and there is a good reason that dry pink rosé works well in the region. Classic Provençal dishes loaded with salty olives and whole bulbs of garlic need to be matched with a dry Rosé to cut through all the richness. Classic Provence Aïoli garlic mayonnaise can only be matched with a dry textured rosé — any other wine would be overwhelmed.
The phenomenal success of Whispering Angel has made wine producers pay proper attention to the sector and realise that if you use your best grapes and focus on flavour and texture then you can justify charging more. These days even fashion houses feel that it is as important to have a quality rosé in their portfolio as much as a rose-scented perfume — Chanel’s Domaine de L’Îlle Porquerolles is delicious by the way.
So will rosé peak? The fact that celebrities are all bringing out their own rosé is a worrying sign that it might — even Post Malone (of the too-many face tattoos and too-bland rap music) has one out this summer. I’m reasonably confident that the quality rosé producers will survive as their main selling point is flavour, not hype.
Below are six to try and you can be sure I’ll have a few more to mention in coming weeks – goodness knows we need something cheery in our glasses this summer.
Wines Under €15
Domaine de Ménard Rosé, Gascony, France — €13.99
Stockists: L’Atitude 51, Bradleys, Le Caveau, Baggot Street Wines, Green Man wines, McGuinness Wines.
A blend of 50% Syrah and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Egiodola (a rare red-skinned grape from South-West France often used in Rosé). This is lively and fruity with red berry aromas and a hint of candyfloss and boiled sweets, soft textured and juicy with a pleasing crisp finish. The Ménard blanc has appeared here before and is also recommended.
L’Ostal Cazes Rosé, Languedoc, France — €11.96
Stockist: O’Briens stores nationwide
O’Briens have embraced the Rosé trend wholeheartedly in recent years and I applaud them for it — no other retailer has done as much for pink wine. With a 25% price reduction on most of their range there are lots to choose from but this is an old favourite. Perfect pale Oeil de Perdrix (partridge eye) colour, floral and raspberry aromas with strawberry and cream flavours on the palate and pleasing freshness.
Passe Colline Rosé Ventoux, Rhône, France — €11.21
Stockist: O’Briens Stores nationwide
This is new to O’Briens range from a Co-Op in Ventoux, that commune in the Southern Rhône that is closest to Provence. This is from a sunny but stony hillside and is a blend of Carignan, Grenache and Syrah. Soft strawberry aromas, round and full flavoured with a textured ripe berry-infused palate, a crisp finish and some pleasing savoury notes.
Wines Over €15
Oníric Pét-Nat Rosé, Penédes, Spain — €17-17.99
Stockists: Urru Bandon, Mannings, Taste Castletownbere, Little Green Grocer, Ardkeen Stores, Mortons, Connemara Hampers, Vintry, Toonsbridge Stores, marypawlewines.com
This is new from Maria Barrena of Azul y Garanza winery in Navarra whose Garciano I featured earlier this month. A blend of 70-30 Xarel-lo and Muscat with a natural yeast ferment and the Muscat fermented in Amphora and bottled before fermentation was complete. Fragrant and textured with a light sparkle, creamy red fruits and lingering stony-lemon flavours.
Château D’Esclans Rock Angel, Côtes de Provence, France — €39.99
Stockists: World Wide Wines, Molloys, Avoca, Mitchell & Son, Corkscrew thecorkscrew.ie, Celtic Whiskey, Baggot St. Wines, McHughs.
This is Whispering Angel’s big brother and a noticeable step up in quality thanks to riper grapes, a more oxygenated ferment (partial barrel fermentation), and lots of lees contact through battônage (lees stirring). Rose petals and red apple aromas, ripe and full flavoured with a layered palate and a complex lingering finish.
Moët et Chandon Rosé Impérial Champagne, France — €62.99
Stockists: Bubble Brothers, World Wide Wines, Wine Centre, McCambridges, Celtic Whiskey Shop, Redmonds, Next Door, Dunnes, SuperValu.
Moët et Chandon has been making rosé since at least the 1870s and I consider their Rosé to be a significant jump in quality over the entry-level Moët. Citrus and red berry aromas, a crisp fruit-driven palate with an underlying rhubarb creaminess and lingering red apple peel flavours. Try with beetroot crisps or strawberries and cream.
WHISKEY OF THE WEEK
Dingle Distillery Single Malt Whiskey, 46.3% ABV, 70cl — €55
Stockists: Bradleys, Galvins, Matsons, No 21, O’Donovans, O’Briens, wineonline.ie, celticwhiskeyshop.com, dingledistillery.ie.
Dingle Whiskey hit a milestone this month with the release of 50,000 bottles of their Core Range (6-7 year old) Single Malt Whiskey made from their own spirit. The plan is to be releasing 100,000 bottles every year by 2023.
This has the highest Sherry expression of any Dingle release to date with 61% aged in Pedro Ximenez Casks and the remainder in Bourbon Cask. Only first fill casks are used which gives the whiskey a lovely intensity. Treacle toffee, raisins and spice aromas with a touch of smoke, caramelised apple, tart-tatin and vanilla on the palate and a lingering, prickly, honey and spice finish. Outstanding.